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Bold Orange Credenza Makeover



Bold Orange Dresser Makeover - Khicktiques
Bold Orange Credenza Makeover

Read below how I created this fabulous orange furniture update!



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Bold Orange Credenza Makeover



This bold orange Credenza wasn't always as fabulous as it is now. It was once a really gross, outdated, damaged piece of furniture that I found at the thrift store. I took it home, gave it two makeovers, and now it has a new home, my home! Keep reading for all the details for both makeovers, and why I had to paint it twice.


 

Product List


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I found this piece...

I purchased this piece at Goodwill for about $40. I thought it was a great price for this size of furniture. I loved the style, the details, and the shape of it. It had three drawers in the center with a cabinet space on each end. Plus each cabinet space has a little shelf! It was super cute sitting there, and I thought it would be an easy flip! If you see one like this for that price - I say get it! If you are buying to flip this style it will more than likely sell quickly. People like long pieces.


Originally, I believe it would have had a hutch on it - a cabinet on the top for plates and fancy china. I think that was perhaps why it is so short. I didn't know whether to call this piece a dresser, credenza, or side board. I did some googling... & I finally decided on credenza which is defined as, "a sideboard, buffet, or bookcase patterned after a Renaissance credence. especially : one without legs." While it does have legs, I read on a different website that credenzas are mostly short, and this one is definitely a shorty.


Before - At Goodwill
Before - At Goodwill

 

The First Paint Job


Prepping for paint...

cleaning

I brought this piece home and started cleaning it up immediately. I was very excited to get started.


sanding

After thoroughly cleaning and allowing it to dry - I gave this piece a good scuff sanding with 120 grit sand paper then 180 grit sand paper. Always sand with the grain.


Scuff sanding is done to "rough up" the existing finish - It de-glosses the piece and gives the paint something to cling onto.


When not scuff sanding - To completely remove a finish it is good to follow with the grain using first 80 grit sandpaper then 120 grit then 180 grit then 220+ grit. As your grits get higher your piece gets smoother.


Finish with a really high (like 400+) grit. it makes for a really smooth finish. The higher the grit the smoother it will be. A crinkled up brown bag would work, as well, for the final sand.


repairs

This piece had a few holes and dings that I took care of with wood filler. I just got a glob of filler with my finger and rubbed it into the damaged areas of the surface.


Once the wood filler was dry I was then able to sand it down using a 220 grit sanding block. The 220 grit is great for smoothing and evening it out so that it blends with the level of the surface.


Wood Filler before sanding
Wood Filler before sanding

My current go-to wood filler is Gorilla All Purpose Wood Filler. I usually will buy the one below and keep it on hand. Just about every project I have done has needed a filler. It has a great texture, and it dries to a nice fill. It's easy to sand smooth. Wood filler can shrink sometimes so you might have to do two runs of the filler. Allowing proper dry times between fills.




After wiping with a damp lint free cloth and making it dust free - I primed it with Wise Owl Paint's clear furniture primer. This primer is a blocking and bonding primer. I definitely wanted to block out that old furniture smell and take preventative measures against tannin bleed through.


I did two coats on the entire piece. Inside of the drawers and inside of the cabinets were done. The top insides and outsides. All primed. The feet may have been the only area I omitted. I usually wait about 4-6 hours to recoat. I waited 24 hours before beginning on my first coat of paint.




 

At first I was going to paint it tan...

My first and second coat of paint I decided to use a light tan color, but after awhile I had no interest in keeping it this color. After that second coat - I accidently let it sit in the garage for almost two years because I just did not know what direction I wanted to go in... It was also that out of sight out of mind kind of thing.


so anyways, it got very dirty and looked like this:


 

2 Years Later

Prepping it again...

I find myself wanting to paint this one again, finally. I went into this second paint job wanting to keep this piece for myself. Since it did not have an excessive amount of paint on it I just went ahead and gave it a really really good cleaning, lightly scuff sanded it with 180 grit sandpaper, wiped away the dust, and then primed it again!


Another two coats of primer but this time I used Eye Love Hue's Ole Bitty Blocker clear primer. Blocker is also my last name, so I feel like maybe this is me some days... ole bitty blocker haha! Makes me want to use it more often.



painting it again...

I was very excited to begin painting this piece again. I decided on this fantastic fall shade of orange paint. A spicy, bold, eye catching makeover was surely what this piece needed. We need someone to notice this cutie.


I painted the first coat with my Zibra Palm-Pro. I really like this brush. It easily fits into my hand and fits the tops and corners easily. I brush my paint in one direction - up and down strokes. If it dries out or drags while I am painting I will use a misting bottle of water and spray a little on the piece in the area I am painting to get it moving smoothly again.



Paint should glide with ease. Adding a mist of water can help with that.


Check out what Good Bones Paint says about the Palm-Pro:


"The Palm-Pro cut in is specifically designed to be an extension of your hand. This brush is seriously perfect and should be the foundation of your furniture painting experience (with Good Bones Paint, of course.)

The small, ergonomic handle will fit into small spaces and odd angles. It's great for surface painting as well. Zibra brushes have wonderfully soft synthetic bristles, which work great with our paint. If you get one brush today, it should be this one. "




While you are shopping check out this paint color ↓ There is a discount code at the end of this post.


The paint color I used for this piece...

I saw the color Carolina Clay in Good Bones Paint's new fall line photo on Instagram and just had to try it! I thought it would look awesome on this long dresser.


What the Good Bones Paint website says about this color:

"A rusty, red clay color. This dark, reddish orange warms the room with it's soft and earthy terracotta hue."






I received a pint of this color and a quart in the color Cinnabar . They came just as the leaves here were changing into the same colors! What perfect timing ;) The pint was just enough to cover this piece with a little left over for touch ups. I had plenty to get this piece finished and to cover the mistakes I will soon tell you about...





 

my mistake...😬


I like to sand between coats of paint. This helps create a smooth and even finish. It will also let you know if there were any areas on the piece that had mishaps with prep work. It happens sometimes, and it happened this time... I was sanding this piece with my 220 sandpaper when I got to the bottom of the right side the paint started rolling off. Peeling! My heart sank.



Recovering from this mistake...

I believe it was because of the primer, but I don't believe the primer is at fault. I painted my first coat as normal, waited the suggested amount of time and when I went to scuff sand - it came off.


What I failed to realize is that temperatures had been dropping. I should have had waited longer for it to dry since the air was colder than normal.


For cold temps and raining days we have to wait longer than the recommended dry times, if we can paint at all. Sometimes it can be too cold or too humid to paint . I can't even use my painter's tape when it is raining when it's too humid. It will not stick.



Here is what I did to fix it...


I continued to sand the whole piece with 220 grit sandpaper. If it came off, I allowed it. I encouraged it. It is better to come off now while it is in the shop. If the paint has no prep issues it will stick. I ended up removing the paint from the entire top and most of the bottom of the right side. I cleaned it with a rag and water. Allowed to dry.


For the top I had to completely sand down to the veneer, so that I could prime it again. I applied two fresh coats and was able to get to painting again. This time I was absolutely going to be waiting much longer that I did the first time around.

The top being sanded back.
I had to sand the top to the veneer.